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Trip Reports
The Replicant
January 2012 :: Canada :: Rockies
image 2 The Replicant (center) 1
image 1 Pitch 1

On our second try, Jess R and I tagged a dream of a route. I have been obsessing over it for over a decade. It was so amazing and I will be stoked on it for a long time to come. Conditions, weather, and stoke all came together this time for a great day in Banff. The approach went on forever. The avy danger was non-factor, thank god. It is steep and wanders up and over many features. It is nice to have a boot track, but it will blow over with the wind and you will wallow in some places up high. The 1st pitch was hollow, hooky, bouldery,… [view report]

Sleeping on the Summits: Colorado 14ers High Bivys Project 2011
November 2011 :: United States :: Rocky Mountains

Documentation of the first person to camp directly on the summit of every single Colorado 14,000' Peak from Sunset to Sunrise.  Dr. Jon Kedrowski tackles the feat in only 95 days from June 23 to Sept 28, 2011. Joined on Occasion by Chris Tomer.

[view report]
Second Chance
November 2011 :: United States :: SE Wyoming
image 2 Rope damage
image 1 His ice tool left where he was hit by the avalanche

I lift my head and all around the edge of the bowl I see a fracture line. I am in the dead center of an avalanche I just triggered. As I start to slide I turn my head and yell AVALANCHE!!! Undoubtedly my meek voice is drowned out. My first thought is “Ed?!” 200’ below me Ed has dismantled the anchor and is climbing with me. Snowy rope quickly starts spooling at his feet. He looks… [view report]