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GRAND TETON “HUT FOR A DAY”
By special permission of Grand Teton National
Park,members of the American Alpine Club will be able
to use the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides’ Corbet High
Camp as a climbing hut for the nights of June 23rd
and 24th.
The camp is at 11,000 feet, near the toe of the
Teepee Glacier on the Grand Teton, and it provides
excellent access to rock climbing on Disappointment
Peak, Teepee Pillar, and the Red Sentinel in
addition to the Grand and Middle Teton. The camp
will be stocked with tents and sleeping bags, and
there is a hut for cooking and eating; a staff
member will be there to help out at mealtimes and
provide information.
The cost is $250 per person for the two night
stay so find yourself a climbing partner and call
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides to reserve your space:
307-733-4979 www.jhmg.com.
**This is only available to AAC members.
COMING EVENTS
June 17
New Hampshire
New England Section gathering at Nancy Savickas’
Refuge Alpiniste in Albany, New Hampshire, starting
at 5 p.m. INFO
June 22
Wyoming
Season opening party at the Grand Teton Climbers’
Ranch, sponsored by Black Diamond. INFO
or
307-733-7271
June 24-25
California
Climb-munity at Donner Summit. This is an excellent
opportunity to join Sierra Nevada Section members
and their guests in climbing the stellar granite crags
of Donner Summit. Cost is $20/person to camp on
private land. Contact SNS Leader Dave Riggs for
more details: david.riggs@s
chwab.com
June 24–26
West Virginia
Roxanna Brock and local trad master Tom Cecil will
teach the “Trad Betty” traditional climbing seminar
at Seneca Rocks. Ask all the questions you’re afraid
to ask your friends and boyfriends. On June 24,
Brock will present a slideshow on climbing in
Siberia. Seneca
Rocks Mountain Guides:
304-567-2115
July 5–9
Wyoming
13th annual International Climbers Festival in
Lander: slideshows, clinics, parties and climbing.
INFO
July 28–30
Colorado
Third annual Butte Bouldering Bonanza, centered
around the Skyland Boulders near Crested Butte.
Info: 970-275-0446 or email
July 29-30
California
Tioga Pass Climb-munity: Climbing and camping with
easy access to Tuolumne Meadowsrock climbing and
Tioga Pass mountaineering. Contact SNS Leader
Dave Riggs at david.riggs@s
chwab.com
March 30–April 1, 2007
Oregon
The 2007 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting will
be in Bend, Oregon, close to the superb rock climbs
of Smith Rock and the backcountry skiing and
climbing in the Cascades. Reserve a room at the
Riverhouse hotel and request an AAC rate as low as
$72 a night: 1-800-547-3928.
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Greetings!
Ten years after the tragedies of the 1996 pre-
monsoon season on Mt. Everest, it is happening
again. Ten deaths are confirmed this spring.
Two cases, both on the north side of the mountain,
stand out as the most unfortunate. Up to 40
individuals are said to have passed the British climber
David Sharp as he lay dying below the summit. Days
later, Australian Lincoln Hall was left, considered
dead, only to be found alive and rescued on the
following day.
These episodes, devoid as they seem of
mountaineering’s tradition of cooperation and
concern for others, cast a nasty shadow on our
sport. The media attention that these events attract
exposes the worst for all to see. But these are
isolated cases on a unique mountain. Both in the
mountains and in my daily work here at the Club, the
ethic of helping others in mountaineering remains
strong.
Everest is our planet’s highest peak, a highly coveted
summit. An infrastructure of fixed ropes, bottled
oxygen and Sherpas who set camps and carry loads
makes it possible for less practiced climbers to
attempt the peak. The resulting large numbers—as
many as 500 may summit this year—includes many
who are ill prepared.
The two most reasonable routes up the mountain are
the South Col Route from Nepal and the North Ridge
from Tibet. Very few expeditions go to either of
these routes without plans to use oxygen, fixed lines
and Sherpa support to aid their ascent. According to
AAC member Eric Simonson, who has guided many
successful expeditions to Everest, “In David Sharp’s
case, he basically got a couple bottles of O2 and a
space in a tent at 27,000 feet—that is it. He was
obviously not ready to handle the terrain above by
himself, or to get himself down when he ran out of
oxygen.”
We have yet to learn many of the details, so it is too
early for a thorough analysis. I know how hard it
would be to manage a rescue up high. Still, the
concept of passing a dying man by, en route to a
summit, is unfathomable to me.
While these events were unfolding in the Himalaya, a
literal who’s who of American mountaineering history
gathered here in Denver to celebrate Dr. Charlie
Houston and the founding of the Altitude Research
Center at the University of Colorado. Dr. Houston’s
mountaineering achievements include attempts on K2
(28,254 feet) in 1938 and 1953. Like so many from
his generation, he was also accomplished in other
arenas; we all know of his pioneering research on the
effects of altitude and hypoxia on the human body.
His son Robin reports that he also built an artificial
heart in his basement.
The list of people here to celebrate Dr. Houston’s life
and the establishment of the Center included Dr. Tom
Hornbein, Nick Clinch, Jim Wickwire, Congressman
Mark Udall and the four other living members of the
1953 K2 expedition: Bob Bates, Bob Craig, Dee
Molenaar and Tony Streather all the way from
England.
These men represent the tradition of mountaineering
that still dominates our sport today. In 1953, the K2
team famously abandoned any concern for the
summit to attempt the rescue of fellow climber Art
Gilkey. Their teamwork and concern for one another
during the struggle for survival that ensued is
legendary.
Our David A. Sowles Award is conferred from time to
time on “mountaineers who have distinguished
themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk
or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the
assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the
mountains.” The members of the 1953 K2 expedition
were among the first recipients. After the 1996
Everest tragedies, three individuals were singled out
to receive the prestigious award.
In 2001 seven climbers gave up their summit on
Lhotse to rescue two who were near death from a
substantially more difficult location than David
Sharp’s. They received the award in 2002.
If you dig deeply enough, you’ll find glimpses of the
best in mountaineering even in this year’s terrible
chapter on Everest. The men that eventually came
to Lincoln Hall’s aid—Dan Mazur, Dawa Sherpa, Myles
Osborn, Andrew Brash, Jangbu Sherpa and Phil
Crampton—gave up their summit to save his life.
Even in the midst of some of the most sickening
stories of selfishness and ego, the spirit of
mountaineering remains strong.
Restpectfully yours,
Phil Powers
Executive Director
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org
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| CLIMBERS' RANCH OPENING SOON |
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All this snow is gone now. Time to climb!
Photo by Dougald MacDonald
The AAC’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch opens June 6,
following the annual workweek at the Ranch (June
1–5). AAC member rates remain just $8 a night for a
bed, shower, and all the camaraderie of the cooking
pavilion; nonmember rates go up this year to $12 per
night. To kick off the 2006 climbing season, Black
Diamond is hosting a party at the Ranch on June 22.
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More Information... |
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| SECTION LEADERS MEET IN GOLDEN |
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The first annual section heads summit was held May
19 at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden.
Attending were half (seven) of the heads of regional
AAC sections around the country, as well as several
board members, new AAC President Jim Donini, and
Jason Manke, the club’s membership coordinator. The
AAC is making revitalization of its 14 sections one
of its highest priorities. Participants explored how
to make sections more effective and successful on a
grass-roots level. (It was strongly felt that
dovetailing with other like-minded organizations was
important.) Also discussed were planning for
succession of section chairs, subsection
opportunities for large geographic areas, keeping
section goals consistent with the AAC’s values, and
the next steps necessary for the sections to move
forward. Less glamorous but equally important items
discussed included accounting procedures,
fund-raising protocols, event planning, website
management, and financial matters.
All club members, and in particular all section
heads, are invited to attend next year’s summit—date
and place to be announced. Until then, direct all
ideas for energizing regional sections to Jason
Manke at
jmanke@americanalpineclub.org
or Section Committee Chair Charlotte Fox at cfoxalpine@ear
thlink.net.
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| RESEARCH GRANTS ANNOUNCED |
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Eleven proposals have been selected for funding
through AAC Research Grants in 2006. The Research
Grants support modest requests to assist scientific
projects that fall within the scope of the AAC’s
charter. Among this year’s winners are:
- AAC member Tana Beus, for a study on the
decline
of mountain goats in their historic range in the
North Cascades.
- AAC members Keith Bosak and Laura Caplins, for
their proposal titled, “A Woman’s Place? Mountain
Tourism, Information Technologies and Women’s
Empowerment in the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve,
Garhwal Himalaya , India.”
- Monica Bruckner, for her proposal to gain a
better understanding of deglaciation on downstream
systems and processes in the Yukon Territory.
- Teresa Chuang, for research on the shift of
species ranges as a result of climate change in the
Sierra Nevada.
- AAC member Adam French, for analyzing local
livelihood needs and crafting strategies for
community-managed protected areas in the Cordillera
Huayhuash, Peru.
- Koren Nydick, for his study of alpine plants in
the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado and
their response to climate change.
- Clint Rogers, for his research related to the
persistence of subsistence trade in the borderlands
of Nepal-Tibet.
For more information on these proposals, or to
obtain information on AAC grants programs, contact
Jason Manke at
jmanke@americanalpineclub.org
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More Information... |
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| NEW AAC WEBSITE TO LAUNCH |
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This month will see the launch of the new AAC
website, its first overhaul in five years.
This will be the first in a series of changes that will
lend the Club a new look, improve access to
information, and help develop the community of
climbers.
This launch will give better access to events and
news and will lead to discussion groups, galleries,
podcasts and the full gamut of modern website
technology.
Now you'll be able to join, renew and donate online,
as well as have a better window into the Club with
more information and interactive content.
Email us with comments, send in your galleries
and have fun.
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| REVISIT VINSON ON 40TH ANNIVERSARY |
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Editor’s Note: Some versions of the April E-News
contained the incorrect web address for this trip,
so we are reprinting this notice.
The 40th anniversary of the first ascent of Vinson
Massif, the highest peak in Antarctica, is December
18, and Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions is
organizing a special trip to celebrate. The
16,050-foot peak was pioneered by an American
Alpine
Club-sponsored team led by Nick Clinch. Antarctic
Logistics (owner of Adventure Network International)
has invited several veterans of that expedition to
revisit the mountain, and is extending a discount of
about 15 percent on its normal fee for an unguided
Vinson expedition to all AAC members. Proposed
dates for
the AAC trip are December 16–29, 2006.
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| ROWELL AWARD SEEKS NOMINEES |
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The Rowell Legacy Committee is accepting
nominationsfor the Rowell Award for the Art of
Adventure, which will honor that adventurer whose
artistic passion illuminates the wild places of the
world, and whose accomplishments significantly
benefit both the environment and the people who
inhabit these lands and regions. Nominations will be
accepted through June 30. The $15,000 annual cash
award is presented in memory of famed adventurers,
writers, and photographers Galen and Barbara Rowell,
who died in a plane crash in 2002.
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More information about the Rowell Award |
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| AAC LIBRARY: BUILT BY MEMBERS |
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The American Alpine Club’s Henry S. Hall Jr. Library
celebrated its 90th birthday in May with an exhibit
that features gifts from members. “Built by Members:
Ninety Years of Collecting” highlights the
discernment and generosity of past and present AAC
bibliophiles. On display at the library in Golden,
Colorado, are books from Henry Montagnier and J.
Monroe Thorington, whose personal collections formed
the core of the early AAC library. Also on view is a
selection from the John Boyle Himalayan Library and
material donated by Nick Clinch, Howard Palmer,
Harrington Putnam, William Ladd, Henry Hall, and
Margaret Prouty.
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Visit the AAC Online Library |
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| NEW CASCADE SECTION CHAIR |
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Al Schumer, a resident of Redmond, Washington, and
an AAC member, will take over for Peter Ackroyd as
the new chair of the Cascade Section. Al has been a
member of the Mountaineers for many years and
looks forward to improving communications between
the clubs and providing opportunities for section
members to get together. The AAC is committed to
reinvigorating the sections under the direction new
President Jim Donini, and Al is a good person to lead
that effort in the Cascade Section. If you would like
to take a more active role in developing ideas and
planning section activities, please contact Al at als@vtablet.com
If you would like to take a more active role in
developing ideas and planning section activities
please contact Al at als@vtablet.com.
The AAC owes many thanks to Peter Ackroyd for his
dedication and service to the Cascade Section and
International Conservation Committee over the years.
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| E-NEWS POLICIES |
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In order to protect the interests of our
subscribers, we have established the following
E-News policies. The AAC office in Golden is the
only source of outgoing messages to subscribers;
recipients cannot respond to or initiate messages to
the list. The AAC will not sell member e-mail
addresses to anyone for any purpose and will have no
commercial advertising of any kind in E-News.
Send comments, suggestions or news items to dougald5@comc
ast.net
If you know an AAC member who isn't receiving the
E-News, it's probably because the AAC does not have
his or her email address. New addresses or address
changes should be sent to getinfo
@americanalpineclub.org.
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| TRIP OF A LIFETIME |
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Banyan Productions and the Travel Channel are
seeking deserving individuals to send on a life
changing journey. They'd like to film selected
expeditions for a new hour long series.
If you or someone you know are interested in
applying, please call the Trips of a Lifetime Hotline @
(215) 928-1027 or email dreamtrips@ba
nyan.com for more information.
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