Dear Members,
I have been out and about with the AAC a great deal during February.
After quite an enjoyable visit to the Ouray Ice Festival, it was off to
the annual meeting in Attitash, New Hampshire. By all accounts this year’s
meeting was a success. The setting had a real mountain feel about it—I
must admit, the Presidential Range feels big. I thoroughly enjoyed a day
on the ice at Frankenstein with George Hurley before entering the nonstop
pace of the board and annual meetings.
Reported below are the awards and new directors and officers of the
club. Another highlight that I found particularly flavorful included the
live auction. As you may already know, Jean-Christophe Lafaille was lost
on Makalu in early February. I was inspired by the response to our auction
of the ice axe he use to climb three 8,000-meter peaks in a single season.
We were able to raise $4,000 that will go directly to his family (matched
by a gift to the AAC). Overall, the live auction raised over $17,000 for
the club.
I was also quite impressed with the speakers and presenters. My
personal fondness for Charles Houston was deepened as I viewed, with awe,
the accomplishments of the 1938 and 1953 American K2 expeditions in his
film, “The Brotherhood of the Rope.” Jennifer Tennican’s “Benedictus”
completed the morning film series. On Friday night, Harish Kapadia’s
detailing of Indian mountaineering was a new-route seeker’s dream show. On
Saturday afternoon we received a survey of exciting climbing from Sue
Nott, Joe Terravechia and Alexander Ruchkin, who made his way to us from
St. Petersburg, Russia. George Lowe’s show amazed us all by demonstrating
the vast accomplishments that one man can achieve during a lifetime in the
hills. Knowing George, there is more to come!
I note that the deadlines for all of the club’s grants are either
imminent or one month away (in the case of the Mountaineering Fellowship
Grant). I’m not convinced we have done the best job possible advertising
these wonderful opportunities. If you are in search of funding for a
climbing adventure, a research project, a conservation effort or a
combination of these, go immediately to the website at:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp and apply for a
grant today. Be quick: With this letter I extend all March 1 deadlines to
Monday, March 6.
I look forward to seeing even more of you at the next annual meeting in
Bend, Oregon, on the last weekend of March 2007.
Warmly,
Phil Powers
Executive Director
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org
NEW
OFFICERS, DIRECTORS ELECTED
A new slate of officers and directors was elected at the AAC’s annual
meeting in New Hampshire on Feb. 11. The club’s new officers are President
Jim Donini, Ouray, Colorado; Vice President Steve Swenson, Seattle,
Washington; Treasurer Charlie Sassara, Anchorage, Alaska; and Secretary
Greg Miller, Berkeley, California.
“I feel privileged to serve as president of the AAC,” Donini said. “I
have been an active climber for over 40 years. During that time I have
seen many changes in climbing, but the commonalities that bring climbers
together remain the same.”
Also elected at the meeting were new directors Bruce Franks, Ellen
Lapham, Travis Spitzer and Jack Tackle, along with returning directors
Conrad Anker and Mike Lewis. You can look up contact info for all AAC
officials at the members-only section of the club’s website:
www.americanalpineclub.org/community/MembersOnly.asp.
AAC HONORS CLIMBERS WITH
ANNUAL AWARDS
The AAC gave Henry Barber its Robert and Miriam Underhill
Award, the nation’s highest honor for climbing achievement, at the club’s
annual dinner in Attitash, New Hampshire. Barber, who lives in nearby
North Conway, was one of the first great rock climbers to travel the
globe, and he shook up locals from Great Britain to Australia with first
free ascents and hard solo climbs.
The AAC gave its second-ever Gold Medal for lifetime
achievement to Past President Nick Clinch, who led the American
expeditions that made the first ascents of Hidden Peak, Masherbrum and
Mount Vinson. Clinch also has been a major force in the development of the
club’s library and the American Mountaineering Museum, scheduled to break
ground next year. The first AAC Gold Medal was awarded to Tom Frost and
Dick Duane for their efforts to preserve Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley.
Canadian Rockies legend Glen Boles and Indian explorer
Harish Kapadia were named honorary members of the AAC. In other awards,
the AAC Literary Award was given to author and humorist John Long; the
Robert Hicks Bates Award for achievement by young climbers went to
Washington-based alpinist Colin Haley; the David Brower Conservation Award
was given to Alton Byers, director of the Research and Education Program
of the Mountain Institute; and the Angelo Heilprin Citation for service to
the club went to longtime New England Section Chair Bill Atkinson.
Newly elected AAC President Jim Donini acknowledges the
standing ovation at the Attitash Annual Meeting. Photo by Eliza Moran.
(L to R) AAC Executive Director Phil Powers, outgoing
President Mark Richey and AAC Gold Medal recipient Nick Clinch after the
awards banquet. Photo by Eliza Moran.
Angela Donini shares her climbing experiences at the
second-annual Ladies Base Camp Lunch. Photo by Eliza Moran.
HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARK
REGS ON HOLD
Jim Bartle, an AAC member living in Peru, writes: “Proposed new
regulations that would prohibit all visitors to Huascarán National Park
(the Cordillera Blanca) from entering the park except with a guide or
‘authorized service provider’ have been put on hold until a new park chief
is named. [The] former chief was dismissed in December…. Peruvian and
international climbing and hiking groups began to protest soon after the
proposed regulations were released last August…. The UIAA adopted a
measure presented by the AAC asking Peruvian authorities to respect the
rights of independent climbers. The wave of faxes, letters and e-mails
sent to National Institute of Natural Resources (INRENA) has clearly had
an impact, but how great is still unclear. The point that seems to have
created the most doubt is that mandatory guides will reduce the number of
hikers and climbers coming to the area, where international tourism is a
key facet of the local economy….
“It is unclear when INRENA will begin to reconsider the public-use
regulations, or even when a new park chief will be named. It is virtually
certain that no new restrictions will be in place for the 2006 climbing
season. (Climbers and hikers will still be required to register at the
park office in Huaraz and pay the $20 use fee.) People interested in
expressing an opinion to the Peruvian government can send e-mails to
Leoncio Alvarez Vasquez, Jefe del Inrena, Ministerio de Agricultura, at
the following address:
lalvarez@inrena.gob.pe, with copies to
csalinas@inrena.gob.pe and
jbarrios@inrena.gob.pe.
Messages in Spanish are preferred, of course, but English is fine as well.
For more information, write to Jim Bartle at
jbartle@terra.com.pe.
CONSERVATION SUMMIT
PLANNED FOR APRIL
Under the AAC slogan “Knowledge, Conservation, Community,” protection
of the mountain environment has long been one of the club’s three main
missions. But many AAC leaders believe it’s time for the club to step up
its involvement in mountain conservation. In order to establish priorities
for this increased commitment, the club will host a full-day “conservation
summit” at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, Colorado, on
Friday, April 21. The goal is to begin a process that will result in a
more focused conservation mission statement for the club. If you’d like to
attend, or for more information, e-mail Executive Director Phil Powers at
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org.
NEW CAMPGROUNDS IN THE WORKS
The AAC is working with the Mohonk Preserve and the state
of New York with the hope of creating a badly needed climbers’ campground
just below the Shawangunk cliffs. Under the proposal, the state would help
develop a campground with at least 20 sites on 45 acres of land, and the
AAC would run the facility along with the Mohonk Preserve. If all goes
well, the new Gunks campground could open by early 2008.
Meanwhile, the AAC board of directors has empowered Past
President Jim McCarthy and Executive Director Phil Powers to negotiate a
letter of intent with the landowner to operate a Joshua Tree Climber’s
Ranch, a new campground just outside the national park in Joshua Tree,
California. The board also instructed Powers and the AAC staff to embark
on an effort to raise $50,000 for this project.
AAC HELPS SHAPE
FINAL DENALI MANAGEMENT PLAN
Climbers headed to Denali National Park over the next 20
years will experience conditions generally similar to those encountered
today, thanks to dogged persistence by the AAC in shaping the park’s Final
Backcountry Management Plan. The plan was formally adopted Feb. 21.
Under the plan, seasonal climbing use on Mount McKinley
will be capped at 1,500 climbers, a figure that will be revisited in a
decade. Climbers will be able to hand-place (and replace) fixed anchors in
the wilderness and non-wilderness backcountry areas; bolt ladders and
anchor-intensive routes will not be allowed. Climbers will be required to
remove human waste above the 14,000-foot camp and within one half mile
from a glacier landing strip if other waste-disposal options are not
provided. Commercial use on Mount McKinley will be limited to 25 percent
of the seasonal capacity.
The plan also addresses the sticky issue of scenic
passenger flights. The AAC was able to get the NPS to establish a
“climbing and mountaineering” zone in part of the park that allows easy
air-taxi access but prohibits most landings by scenic flights. In
addition, glacier landings between 9 p.m. and 9 a.m. are prohibited.
A copy of the final plan has been posted at
www.americanalpineclub.org/conservation/landmanagement.asp.
INDIAN CREEK WASTE PROJECT
PROGRESSES
The AAC has donated 1,000 Wag Bags and contracted for the construction
of four pipe safes (for donations) to support the Friends of Indian
Creek’s human-waste-removal project. Voluntary waste removal is part of
the Bureau of Land Management’s new management plan for the world-class
crack-climbing site in southeastern Utah, and is essential to retaining
the area’s free, primitive camping. The Friends of Indian Creek have
produced a video, “The Wag Bag Movement,” starring climbing comic Timmy
O’Neill, to promote responsible waste management at these beautiful crags.
For more information, visit
www.friendsofindiancreek.org.
FRED BECKEY DOCUMENTARY IN
THE WORKS
The AAC is supporting a planned film about the renowned
climber Fred Beckey, one of the most prolific and influential pioneers in
North American climbing history. Now in his early 80s, Beckey is making an
attempt on an unclimbed 19,000-foot peak in Sichuan Province of China this
spring. “Direct Beckey,” a film by Dave O’Leske and Through A Child’s Eye
Productions, will cover this attempt and tell Beckey’s life story.
Donations to the AAC for the project will be matched by one of Beckey’s
most influential apprentices, Yvon Chouinard, up to a total of $7,000
toward the end goal of $30,000. Donations of $500 and up will receive a
signed copy of the completed film. More info:
www.throughachildseyesproductions.com/beckey.htm.
ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
TURNS 100
South Walsh Point (left)
and Point 4050 in the Yukon, site of this June’s ACC centennial ski
mountaineering camp. Photo courtesy of Alpine Club of Canada.
The Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) will celebrate 100 years
of mountaineering and mountain culture in 2006, and it is inviting AAC
members to take part in the various celebrations, including ski
mountaineering and climbing camps. This summer, Canada Post plans to issue
a stamp in honor of the ACC’s centennial, and in the fall major events
will include an art exhibition at the Whyte Museum in Banff, the hosting
of the General Assembly of the UIAA, and the Centennial Dinner of the club
on Oct. 14, 2006, in Banff. The AAC’s fall board meeting has been timed to
coincide with this event and will take place in British Columbia. For more
information on the ACC’s ski mountaineering and climbing camps, as well as
all the festivities, visit the “Mountain Adventures” and “Centennial
Celebration” pages at
www.alpineclubofcanada.ca.
LIVE IN YOSEMITE VALLEY FOR
FREE
Interested in living for free in Camp 4 this summer,
working as a member of Yosemite's Bear Team? In order to help mitigate
human-wildlife interactions, Yosemite National Park is looking for
volunteers to live and work in Camp 4. Duties will involve educating
visitors about proper food storage and bear behavior, assisting with
Wildlife Management’s response to habituated bears, and disseminating
campground regulations. Volunteers must be interested in bear management
issues (degree in the biological sciences preferable) and must be willing
to devote five-plus hours each evening (one week on, one week off) to
working with Wildlife Management and other park officials. If you're a
climber who has a minimum of 30 days to volunteer and climb this summer,
go to
www.volunteer.gov/gov and submit an application.
2007 MOUNTAIN FEST SET
FOR BEND, OREGON
The AAC’s 2007 annual meeting and Mountain Fest will be
held March 30-April 1, 2007, in Bend, Oregon. Beautiful Bend offers
inexpensive lodging and convenient access to both the superb rock climbing
of Smith Rock and good spring skiing on Mt. Bachelor. Save the dates and
watch for more details in coming months.
COMING EVENTS
March 3-5
Ontario
The Nipigon Ice Fest at the top of Lake Superior, with clinics and
slideshows. See
http://www.nipigonicefest.com/.
March 4-5
New York
The fourth annual Adirondack Backcountry Ski Festival in Keene Valley,
featuring clinics, demos and a slideshow/dinner. Info at
www.mountaineer.com
or 518-576-2281.
March 12
California
Buttermilks Restoration Project at the Buttermilk Boulders. Work party
starts at 10 a.m., followed by climbing and then Roxanna Brock slideshow
at 6 p.m. at Mountainlight Gallery in Bishop. Info at
www.friendsoftheinyo.org.
March 18
Massachusetts
Tenth annual New England Section dinner in Weston. Special Guest: Ed
Webster, speaking on “Kenneth Henderson and the Pioneers of the 1930s.”
Contact Nancy Savickas at
nj_savickas_28@hotmail.com.
March 21
Alaska
Joe Puryear, author of a new climbing guide to Alaska, will do a slideshow
at the BP Energy Center, 900 E. Benson, in Anchorage. Contact Harry Hunt
at hohunt@gci.net.
March 24-26
Nevada
The Red Rock Rendezvous offers clinics by world-class climbers Damien and
Willie Benegas, Roxanna Brock, Peter Croft, Jim Donini, Beth Rodden and
many others, plus sponsor demos, comps and seminars, Saturday-night party,
pancake breakfast and more. Info at
http://www.mgear.com/RR06/.
March 24-26
Manitoba
The Alpine Club of Canada celebrates the centennial of its founding in
Winnipeg with climbing, a reception and gala dinner. Out-of-town guests
may order their tickets by contacting Josée Lavoie at
joseelavoie9@hotmail.com or
204-789-3925 (daytime).
April 1
Illinois
Midwest Section annual dinner, with special guest Phil Powers speaking on
climbs in Alaska, Wyoming and Pakistan. Contact Section Leader Ben Kweton
for more details:
ben_kweton@yahoo.com.
April 4
Alaska
Ralph Baldwin presents a show on climbing in the Rwenzori Range, including
an ascent of Mt. Stanley, at the BP Energy Center, 900 E. Benson, in
Anchorage. Contact Harry Hunt at
hohunt@gci.net.
April 15-17
Colorado
Alpine ace and impresario Jonny Copp organizes the second annual Boulder
Adventure Film Festival and Dirt Days: movies, mountain-sports challenges,
environmental education and more. See
www.boulderadventurefilm.com.
April 29
California
“Monumental,” the award-winning documentary film about David Brower, will
be screened at 7:30 p.m. in Yosemite Valley’s West Auditorium, preceded by
a 6 p.m. reception hosted by the Sierra Nevada section. See
www.loteriafilms.org
for more about the film. Questions? Contact Sierra Nevada Section Chair
Ellen Lapham at elapham@aimhigh1.com.
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