Dear Members,

I hope you will read the brief report below on the rule changes in Peru’s Huascaran National Park and follow the links to detailed information about the rules on the Club’s website. Our membership’s experience in South America—indeed in any international climbing destination—positions us uniquely to offer advice that can result in ever-improving climbing management policies around the world. I hope you will consider responding to the Peruvian park managers, especially if you have personal experience in the Cordillera Blanca.

As the only climbers' organization in the United States with the relationships and reach to affect policy in other countries, we take our role here extremely seriously. Conveniently on this issue, our current president, Mark Richey, has both extensive experience and many friends in Peru. He has graciously volunteered to do whatever it takes as our ambassador in this important dialogue.

Phil Powers
Executive Director
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org


 AAC OPPOSES NEW REGS IN CORDILLERA BLANCA

New visitor-use regulations adopted by Peru’s Huascaran National Park threaten to dramatically alter how one can climb in the Cordillera Blanca. If the regulations are implemented as written, climbers will only be able to access the most popular peaks and routes (an estimated 80 of the 600 or so known routes within the park), must climb with a local mountain guide (at a ratio of one guide per two clients), and will not be able to visit the park between December and March.

Earlier this month, AAC President Mark Richey wrote to Leoncio Alvarez Vasquez, the chief of INRENA, the department that oversees national parks in Peru, expressing significant concerns over the regulations. (See Richey’s letter here.) The AAC is having the new regulations translated to English, and will post the document on its website when this is completed. The AAC also has alerted key representatives of UIAA member clubs to generate international response to the Peruvian authorities.
If you wish to voice your concerns, you can do so by email to Leoncio Alvarez Vasquez (Mr. Alvarez) at lalvarez@inrena.gob.pe. Please copy any emails to Mr. Alvarez’s assistant at jbarrios@inrena.gob.pe and to the head of protected areas, Carlos Salinas, at csalinas@inrena.gob.pe. Though communication in Spanish is ideal, any language will work.

A lengthy background article on Huascaran National Park regulations by AAC member Jim Bartle, our contact on the ground in Peru, is posted at www.americanalpineclub.org/docs/2004_Winter_AAN.pdf.

AAC BACKS CASTLETON HUMAN-WASTE PROJECT

The AAC has donated $1,000 to an innovative project for human-waste removal at the base of Castleton Tower in Utah. The grant was given to Utah Open Lands, which purchased 221 acres at the base of the classic desert spire in 2003, saving the land from housing development. Camping below Castleton has always been informal, and Utah Open Lands aims to preserve this experience while protecting the site from the effects of heavy use by climbers. With this in mind, the group will install a dispenser of Wag Bags at the camping area, and climbers will be asked to carry out their feces in these bags and deposit it in nearby Moab or Grand Junction.

Carrying out waste is unfamiliar to most climbers, but river runners have done it for years and popular mountaineering destinations, including Denali, El Capitan and the Cascade volcanoes, now require it. The AAC hopes the Castleton project can serve as a pilot program for a similar but much more complicated carry-it-out plan for Indian Creek, Utah, where the BLM is finalizing a climbing-management plan that may call for human-waste removal.

K2 IS STILL HARD

One year after a season in which more than 40 climbers reached the summit of K2, the second-highest peak in the world has restored its reputation for extreme mountaineering difficulty. Heavy snowfall in Pakistan loaded the mountains last winter and spring, and the summer season saw few extended windows of good weather. Although numerous expeditions attempted K2 this year, no one made the summit; a Kazakh team reached 8,500 meters on the 8,611-meter peak but turned back in the face of dangerous snow conditions. It appears 2004’s successes were the exception: K2 has not been climbed in three of the last four seasons.

AAC EXTENDS SUPPORT OF KHUMBU PROJECT

In its 2005–06 fiscal-year budget, the AAC will spend $10,000 to help launch the second phase of the Khumbu Alpine Conservation and Restoration Project, spearheaded by The Mountain Institute (TMI). In 2003, the AAC committed to spend $21,000 over three years for phase one of the project, which so far has raised about $67,500. With TMI’s support, a new, local committee known as the Khumbu Alpine Conservation Council has made major strides in protecting shrub juniper in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The council has banned the harvesting of shrub juniper for fuel, agricultural and incense purpose.

Heavily eroded slopes near Chukung village, a result of years of cutting shrub juniper for fuel for local trekker lodges. Photo courtesy of www.mountain.org.

All trekking lodges now use kerosene for fuel, a kerosene depot for porters is up and running, with 10,000 liters of kerosene and 100 stoves available for rent, and a new porter shelter in Lobuche is providing a warm place and cooking facilities for 40 porters.

In the coming years, with AAC support, TMI plans to solidify the gains made in the Khumbu and begin steps to replicate this success in other mountainous areas of Nepal and beyond, including the Andes and Kilimanjaro. For more information on the Khumbu Alpine Conservation and Restoration Project, visit www.mountain.org/work/resedu/resedu02.cfm.

PEAK NAMED FOR ALEX LOWE

The U.S. Board on Geographic names has approved a proposal to give the name Alex Lowe Peak to a 10,031-foot mountain in Gallatin National Forest, near Bozeman, Montana. Lowe, who was killed in 1999 by an avalanche on Shishapangma, lived in Bozeman and is thought to have made the first ski descent of a couloir on the north side of the remote peak, with the late Hans Saari. “I am pleased and proud that this incredible honor has been given to Alex for his accomplishments as a mountaineer and for the positive, humble spirit that he shared with so many,” said Jennifer Lowe, widow of the late climber and president of the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (www.alexlowe.org).

BANFF CHOOSES PHOTO CONTEST WINNERS

A Mead Norton photo of prayer flags adorning a pair of giant rocks in Tibet is the grand-prize winner at the 2005 Banff Mountain Photography Competition. More than 2,600 photos from 24 countries were entered in the contest. To see all of the winning images, visit www.banffcentre.ca/mountainculture/2005/competition/photo/.

AAC NAMES NEW COMMITTEE CHAIRS

The AAC website has posted a revised list of the chairs and members of the club’s many volunteer committees. If you’re interested in learning more about club activities, from conservation to huts, or you want to volunteer your time and expertise, these committee members are the place to start. See the list at www.americanalpineclub.org/about/committees.asp.

AAC-BACKED TEAM CLIMBS TRANGO II

A small, international team backed by an AAC Lyman Spitzer grant completed a major new line on Trango II (ca. 20,750 feet), a snow-capped peak north of Nameless Tower. Jonathan Clearwater (New Zealand), Jeremy Frimer (Canada) and Samuel Johnson (Alaska), all in their 20s, climbed a 5,200-foot ridge line on the southwestern side of the peak in pure alpine style. The climb took five days, with storms four of the five days and almost no food for the last two days.

Severance Ridge (VI 5.11 A2 AI3 M5) climbs two clean rock buttresses separated by a knife-edge ridge, with a second knife-edge gaining the summit snowfields. The trio traversed about 500 feet beneath the summit to descend below the Trango Monk. The team also was backed by grants from the Mount Everest Foundation and the New Zealand Alpine Club.

Tricky ground high on Severance Ridge. Photo courtesy of Jeremy Frimer.

SPEED ASCENT ON NAMELESS TOWER
Three U.S. climbers made a 12-hour ascent of the Eternal Flame route on Trango (“Nameless”) Tower in Pakistan, but were kept from the true summit by a vicious snowstorm. Micah Dash, Nick Martino and Renan Ozturk climbed the 32-pitch route with no fixed lines or bivy gear, joining the British Route two pitches below the top of 20,469-foot Trango Tower around 5 p.m. Both Martino and Ozturk were supported by AAC Mountaineering Fellowship Fund grants, which support American climbers age 25 and younger. To apply, visit www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp.

CARSTENSZ REOPENED TO CLIMBERS
Several companies have begun guiding climbers up 16,023-foot Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia, one of the Seven Summits. The Indonesian government stopped issuing permits to climb the peak in 2002, citing security problems in this remote region. In July, however, guiding services began making a legal approach to Carstensz basecamp via helicopter. U.S.-based Mountain Trip took four clients to the top in mid-August, and Alpine Ascents, Mountain Madness, International Mountain Guides and other companies were booking trips for this fall. The climb to Carstensz’ limestone summit doesn’t come cheap: A guided climb with helicopter access ranges from $12,500 to $18,500 for the 14- to 20-day expedition, not including travel costs to Indonesia.

JOB APPLICANTS INTERVIEWED ATOP MOUNT FUJI
We doubt the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission would stand for this: According to The Courier-Mail newspaper in Australia, a Tokyo-based online retailer of women’s clothing required job applicants to climb Mount Fuji as part of the hiring process. Daiji Kanda, president of the retailer, and six fashion models met the applicants at 2,400 meters on the 3,776-meter volcano and set off with them for the summit. Fourteen job prospects reached the top at 6 a.m. the next morning in near-freezing temperatures. Those who weren’t too ill to speak then sat for 10-minute interviews. Three or four candidates were expected to be hired. For the full story, visit http://tinyurl.com/8y7y5.

COMING EVENTS
September 30–October 2
California
The 9th Annual Climb Smart Gathering at Joshua Tree’s Indian Cove campgrounds, hosted by Friends of Joshua Tree, features clinics, gear raffles, food and entertainment. See www.friendsofjosh.org.

October 7–9
Ottawa
The Annual Montreal River-Batchawana Rocktoberfest is a free gathering of climbers at the developed and developing crags on the east side of Lake Superior. Bonfire party Oct. 8 in Batchawana Bay. Info: www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com or 705-946-6054.

October 9–15
California
The Peak Rescue Institute holds a seven-day rescue seminar in Joshua Tree National Park, designed for those interested in learning and improving rescue techniques. Call 877-488-7325 or visit www.peakrescue.org.

October 15
New York
The 7th annual New Paltz Film Festival will be held at the Julien J. Studley Theater at SUNY at 7:30 p.m. Info: www.chestnutmtnproductions.com/newpaltz/nphome.htm.

October 15
Texas
The 2005 Granite Gripper climbing and bouldering contests at Enchanted Rock. Info and registration materials at www.granitegripper.com.

October 15
Colorado
The AAC’s Central Rockies Section will host its fifth trail-improvement day at Lumpy Ridge in Estes Park. Register early by emailing Greg Sievers at gsievers57@cs.com or calling 970-586-4075 to be assured of receiving a T-shirt and free pizza lunch at the work site. This year’s goals include work on the badly eroded Twin Owls approach trail and the Little Twin Owls trail and bouldering area.

October 22
New Hampshire
The AAC New England Section will hold its annual fall BBQ at Nancy Savickas’ house in the Conway area. See www.atkinsopht.com/mtn/aacnesct.htm.

October 22–23
California
The Sierra Nevada and Southwest sections will co-host the SNOfest in Bishop, featuring a slideshow and beverages on Saturday night and a bouldering clinic on Sunday with top boulderer Natasha Barnes. Contact bagtrango@yahoo.com or elapham@aimhigh1.com for more info.

October 23
Colorado
The Neptune Mountaineering Horsetooth Hang Bouldering Festival: six hours of bouldering and toproping, trash cleanup and party. Info: www.ncccsite.com.

October 29
New York
The AAC New York Section’s 26th annual black-tie dinner will feature Eric Simonson, one of the world’s best-known mountain guides. The dinner will be at Manhattan’s Union Club. For an invitation, email Phil Erard at philiperard@nysalpineclub.org or call 212-763-0379 and leave a message. This year’s event will benefit the American Alpine Journal and AAC Library.

February 10-12
New Hampshire
The 2006 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting will be based at the Attitash Grand Summit Hotel, in the middle of the White Mountains.
Climbing clinics, camaraderie and shows by Ian Parnell, Harish Kapadia and others. Save the dates and stay tuned for details at www.americanalpineclub.org.

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