Dear Members,

For the last eight months, I’ve worked as the AAC’s Interim Executive Director in the club’s Colorado headquarters. It’s been a remarkable experience, and I am more aware than ever before of the AAC’s importance and its extraordinary promise for the future. Now it’s time to turn over the reins to Phil Powers, who starts full-time as the club’s new Executive Director on May 2. Phil can be reached at 303-384-0110, ext. 12, or ppowers@americanalpineclub.org. I’m certain that he would welcome your suggestions.

Even though I won’t be working in Golden anymore, I’ll still be producing the monthly E-News, so keep sending your news and comments. See you out there!

Dougald MacDonald
E-News Editor/Interim Executive Director
dougald5@comcast.net

 


 SOUTHWEST SECTION REVITALIZED
The AAC’s Southwest Section, encompassing Southern California, southern Nevada and Arizona, has a new chairman and a new burst of energy. David Rosenstein has taken over the section and has already organized a members’ event to help raise money for the Friends of Joshua Tree and Joshua Tree Search & Rescue. At this gathering in mid-April, Rosenstein described the section’s incipient plans for a new Joshua Tree “Climbers’ Ranch.” This facility, located on private land outside the national park, eventually could offer a low-cost alternative to Josh’s crowded campgrounds for traveling climbers. Rosenstein expects to organize new events this fall; contact him at bagtrango@yahoo.com.

AAC PRODUCTS AVAILABLE ONLINE
Brand-new American Alpine Club T-shirts, coffee mugs, and other logo-emblazoned tools for daily living are now available for purchase online, thanks to corporate sponsor Mountain Gear, which also produced these products. A percentage of the proceeds from each sale goes directly to the AAC. Check it out at www.mountaingear.com/AAC

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WERNER BRAUN HONORED
Longtime Yosemite Search and Rescue volunteer Werner Braun has been awarded the President’s Call to Service Award and the Department of the Interior’s Conservation Service Award. A member of the YOSAR team since 1970, Braun has volunteered for an estimated 1,500 rescues, and he helped perfect many of Yosemite’s advanced high-angle rescue techniques.

MAY BOARD MEETING
The next meeting of the AAC Board of Directors will be Saturday, May 14, at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, Colorado. The meeting generally starts around 8:30 a.m. Members and other guests are invited to attend.

RAINIER TO OPEN UP GUIDING
Mount Rainier National Park has decided to open guiding on the mountain to three companies, ending the longtime near-monopoly held by Rainier Mountaineering Inc. Under the new plan, guide services will bid for one of three slots: one concession for 50 percent of guided ascents (expected to be granted to Rainier Mountaineering) and two others for 25 percent each. The new concessions will be granted for the 2006 season, giving three companies permission to guide a maximum total of 48 clients a day on the peak. The plan also attempts to move guided climbs to weekdays and the early season, and it creates “commercial free” zones in Rainier National Park, including the western side of the mountain. The National Park Service received nearly 2,000 comments on its proposed plan, most in favor of widening the choice of guide services. Read more at http://parkplanning.nps.gov/projectHome.cfm?projectId=12228.

MEDICAL INFO FOR AAC MEMBERS
Several members already have taken advantage of the unique “Ask a Doctor” feature of the AAC web site. By logging in with their member IDs, AAC members can confidentially ask climber-doctors anything about mountain medicine, Third World travel, tendon injuries, and the like. The web page also holds medical articles of interest to climbers. Get started at www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/medical.asp. Lost your member ID? Contact Jason Manke at jmanke@americanalpineclub.org.

ROCK CLIMBING SURVEY
A team at the School of Natural Resources at the University of Arizona is leading a broad-based survey of North American rock climbers, designed to provide important information about attitudes and practices of climbers. The survey, conducted online in partnership with the Centre for Tourism Policy and Research at Simon Fraser University, will determine where and how often we climb, how much we travel to climb, and “what changes, such as management actions, increased visitation and industrial development, will be supported, tolerated or protested by climbers.” The survey is confidential and takes 15 to 20 minutes to complete. The results will be shared with climbing advocacy groups around the continent. To participate, visit http://bonesaw.srnr.arizona.edu/climbing/naclimbsurvey.php

OPENINGS ON SHISHAPANGMA EXPEDITION
An American-led, non-guided expedition to Shishapangma in Tibet this fall has a few openings for experienced climbers. The expedition will leave the U.S. on September 2 and return 49 days later; total cost is expected to be under $9,000. The team is led by Monty Smith and currently has five members, all with substantial high-altitude experience. All team members will be required to participate in a four-day ascent of Mt. Rainier in late June. Interested? Contact Smith at montys@orel.ws or 503-357-7804.

AMERICAN SKIER RANKS HIGH IN WORLD CUP
American Jeannie Wall finished fourth in the third annual Black Diamond Wasatch Powder Keg, the only Ski Mountaineering World Cup on U.S. soil. Wall finished the 8.4-mile up-and-down course between the Alta and Brighton ski resorts, with a vertical mile of climbing and descent, in 2 hours 5 minutes, just over nine minutes behind women's champion Gloriana Pellissier from Italy. Frenchman Florent Perrier won the men's race in 1 hour 33 minutes. The AAC is the sanctioning body for international ski mountaineering competition in the U.S. For full results of the Wasatch Powder Keg, plus maps and photos of the courses, visit www.bdel.com/powderkeg/. To learn more about ski mountaineering competitions, see www.americanalpineclub.org/community/ismc.asp.

BANFF SEEKS PHOTO ENTRIES
The 2005 Banff Mountain Photography Competition is looking for super photos from amateurs and professionals. Over $8,000 in cash and prizes will be awarded. Entries are due by May 31, 2005. Download an entry form at www.banffmountainfestivals.ca/photo. To see past winners, visit www.banffcentre.ca/mountainculture/archives/.

SPITZER GRANTS ANNOUNCED
The AAC’s Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants, one of the nation’s leading grant programs for cutting-edge alpine climbing, have been announced for 2005. Grants totaling $12,000, plus gear from MSR, Therm-a-rest and Platypus, will be provided to three expeditions attempting new routes on impressive peaks in Asia, all in clean alpine style.

James Stover and Scott Anderson were awarded $4,500 for their attempt on the unclimbed Southeast Face of Kizil Asker (5,842 meters) in the Western Kokshaal Too of Kyrgyzstan. A four-person expedition led by Tommy Chandler, awarded $4,000, will attempt new free-climbing routes on Putala Shan and other granite formations in the Qionglai Range of China. Sam Johnson and an international group of three other climbers will get $3,500 for their attempt on the unclimbed complete Northeast Buttress of Uli Biaho (6,109 meters) in Pakistan.

Spitzer Grants Committee Chair Jack Tackle commented, “I’m excited that all of these climbers are under the age of 29, and nearly half are under 25. This is our way at the AAC of investing in both the future of American alpine climbing, and also in the future of the membership of the club.” 

COMING EVENTS
May 5
Colorado
“Fiesta for the Peaks,” the annual fundraiser for the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, will feature films, a raffle, silent auction, photography and more. Tickets are $10 in advance, $15 at the door, at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Call 303-996-2757 to order tickets.

May 7
Oregon
The 13th Annual “Spring Thing” brings climbers to Smith Rock for trail work, invasive weed removal, chalk and trash cleanups and more. Register at 8 a.m. at the main fee station at Smith Rock State Park. Free dinner for volunteers. www.smithrock.com/flash/events/st_05.html

May 15
Oregon
Second annual Adopt-The-Butte Day at Rocky Butte in Portland. Trash removal and more, with raffle and lunch sponsored by Climbing magazine and Omega Pacific. Contact Kelly Rice at kellie_rice@beavton.k12.or.us.

May 20-22
West Virginia.
The 3rd Annual New River Rendezvous brings climbers to the New River Gorge for clinics, competitions, meals, free camping and more. Info: www.waterstoneoutdoors.com.

May 20
New Hampshire
Slideshow by Rick Wilcox—a fundraiser for climber Jim Gagne’s Mt. Everest/Seven Summits Quest. Located at Foster’s C-Man Inn in Plymouth. Tickets: $25. Info at jlgagne69@earthlink.net.

May 27-30
Colorado
The 27th Mountainfilm brings films, symposia and distinguished guests to the beautiful mountain town of Telluride. Visit www.mountainfilm.org.

June 18
New Hampshire
The AAC’s New England Section hosts its Summer Barbecue at Nancy Savickas’ “Refuge Alpiniste” in Albany. Bring some slides, a fly rod and something for the grill. Festivities begin at 5 p.m. See www.atkinsopht.com/mtn/aacnesct.htm for driving directions.

 

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