The British organization Medical Expeditions has produced a useful primer called Travel at High Altitude that can be downloaded for free. The 46-page booklet covers the physiology, diagnosis, and treatment of altitude illnesses, including acclimatization techniques and recommendations for climbers with pre-existing medical conditions.
Although much of this information will seem fairly basic to experienced mountaineers, the booklet provides a useful refresher and it’s light enough to carry on any expedition. Plus, it’s free! Download the booklet here.
Medical Expeditions is a 15-year-old nonprofit dedicated to research and education on altitude-related illnesses. The group has organized three major research expeditions to Nepal and has planned a new trip for the fall of 2008.