Alpine Environmental Practices
15 February, 1974
To Authors and Publishers of Climbing Guidebooks:
The American Alpine Club believes that the education of climbers in the wise and careful use of the alpine environment would be greatly furthered if advice concerning sound environmental practices were contained in the books which climbers actually carried into the field with them. Partly because of the difficulty of devising a set of prescriptions valid for all the varied regions of this continent and partly because of the aversion of many climbers to formal codes, the AAC has refrained from publishing one. Nonetheless, the directors are deeply concerned about the problem of adverse impact on the mountain environment of the ever-growing numbers of climbers and have repeatedly urged climbers to adopt a minimum impact approach. The alpine environment is an exceedingly fragile one. Delicate ecosystems have only a brief growing season between the melting of the last snows and the onset of long, harsh winters. The margin for recovery from damage is slight, and human impact can do irreparable harm. Federal and state agencies, as well as private owners, are increasingly concerned about protection of this environment, and in some areas limitations on use are being imposed. As climbers, our continued access to the mountains will depend upon the care with which we treat them. We would, therefore, like to urge you to consider ways of impressing upon users of your guidebooks the necessity for the sort of self-restraint necessary to prevent environmental degradation. Among good alpine environmental practices to recommend, depending on local conditions, are the following:
Observing local regulation and the guidelines of Federal agencies or private owners.
Helping to prevent trail erosion. Cutting across switchbacks creates serious erosion problems. Making duplicate paths should be avoided. Trails which cut across a slope where the angle is low will cause less erosion than hose which cut across it where it is steep.
Protecting the trees. Continuous use of belay and rappel anchors can damage and even kill trees. Tree climbing should not be a substitute for routes on rock.
Protecting the alpine meadows. In general, the lower forested areas or the rocky alpine areas are more tolerant of use than the delicate subalpine meadows and are therefore preferable for campsites.
Packing a stove. In many alpine and subalpine areas, downed wood is in short supply. The lower, dead branches of alpine trees are part of the natural scene and should be allowed to remain. Blackened campfire rings left in place are a sign of human impact on the wilderness environment; on the other hand, dispersing fire rings will damage the environment if many users are doing it.
Avoiding polluting. Soap pollutes streams and lakes. Excrement should be buried a short distance into the topsoil where natural processes will decompose it. All trash and garbage should be packed out. If it is buried, animals will dig up the soil to get at it.
Packing out litter left behind by the sort of thoughtless user who will always be with us, no matter how high the general level of consciousness becomes.
Using restraint in the employment of climbing aids such as pitons and bolts which can permanently de the rock and degrade the route for subsequent climbers. Your cooperation in this endeavor will be a great service to American mountaineering.