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Photo Contest: 2015 Guidebook to Membership · January 12, 2015



AAC members, submit your raddest climbing photos by Thursday at noon MST, for chance to be showcased in the 2015 Guidebook to Membership. Please look at all contest rules and details before submitting your photos to photo.contest@americanalpineclub.org.

2015 BMC International Summer Climbing Meet · January 8, 2015

If you would like to join the BMC International Summer Climbing Meet, this May in North Wales, please send us a simple climbing resume and a paragraph telling us why we should choose you to ksullivan@americanalpineclub.org by Wednesday, January 14.


BMC International Meets are truly unique. They are a great opportunity to experience British ‘trad’ climbing, and you get to meet a varied bunch of climbers from 20 to 30 countries from around the world. The Meet will be located at the Ynys Ettws Hut in the heart of the Llanberis Pass (North Wales). We stay here as guests of the Climbers’ Club who own the property. During the week you will be teamed up with British host climbers who have an excellent knowledge of climbing in North Wales.


We will team you up with a British based host climber each day and they will take you out climbing.
Partnerships will be changed every few days so that you get to climb with different people.

There will be an optional Trad Clinic (placing runners, building belays, belaying with two ropes) by James McHaffie on the first morning.
There will be one day’s stewardship work for Snowdonia National Park.
There will be several evening presentations throughout the week (evening programme to be confirmed nearer the time).


Visiting climbers must have at least two years’ experience of traditional lead climbing (experience with the placement and removal of protection).


Venue – Ynys Ettws Hut, Llanberis Pass, North Wales. Dates – Sunday 10 May to Sunday 17 May 2015.
Arrival evening is Sunday 10 May (no climbing on this day). Departure day is Sunday 17 May (no climbing on this day).


You are responsible for making your own travel arrangements to the UK.
Travel details will be sent to you at the end of January when places are confirmed. The hut offers ‘alpine hut’ style accommodation with shared rooms and bathroom facilities.
There is a large camping area outside of the hut which might be used for accommodation in addition to the hut (dependent on numbers).


The fee is £130 per person and includes: Seven nights accommodation Three catered meals per day Nightly presentations

Five days’ climbing with experienced host climbers James McHaffie Trad Clinic (optional)
Transfers from Manchester International Airport
One day’s stewardship work for Snowdonia National Park

2014-15 Mountaineering Fellowship Grant Fall Recipients · January 7, 2015

Mountaineering Fellowship Grant Fall, 2014-2015


Brady Deal (19), $800 for exploratory new ascents, Pika Glacier, Alaska.

Riley Hawkins (24), $200 for the first adaptive ski traverse of Wapta Icefield, Alberta.

David Lee (21), Kurt Ross (23), and Keenan Waeschle (22), $250 each for a new route on West Face of Peak 11300, West Fork of the Ruth Glacier, Alaska.

Matthew Morriss (24), $250, and Philip Staub (24), $700, for a 3 week expedition to Mt. Huntington area with a new route on Reality Peak, Alaska.

Ethan Newman (24), $800 for a new route on Hall Peak, Purcell Wilderness, British Columbia.

Kat Vollinger (25), $200 for new routes on Lawrenny and Terror peaks from Poseidon Creek, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand.

Jimmy Voorhis (24), $200 for a new route on Tabor Wall, Hamlin Peak, Mt. Katahdin, Maine.

Ryan Wichelns (20), $700 for Brooks-Silverthorne traverse, Alaska.


Learn more about the Mountaineering Fellowship grant.

2015 Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch Reservations Open · January 5, 2015



Reservations are now open for the 2015 season. Reserve your stay today.

2015 Live Your Dream Grant Application Period is Now Open · January 1, 2015


The Live Your Dream grant powered by The North Face, is designed for you—no matter your age, ability level, or climbing discipline. Dream big with your friends, apply, and the AAC might just fund your next adventure. This year, more than $50,000 is available for climbers who want to take their skills to the next level. Apply to Live Your Dream between January 1 and March 1, 2015.

Before you apply, read these 10 tips for winning a Live Your Dream grant.

Honorary President Bill Putnam Dies · December 22, 2014

Bill with his dog. Photo from his friend Dan.

Bill with his dog. Photo from his friend Dan.


We are sad to announce that former Honorary President Bill Putnam passed away yesterday. William Lowell Putnam began his service to the Club as editor of our Canadian guidebooks in 1957 and later became Club President. As a tribute we share his “A Great Many Years” speech that he gave at the Club’s 2011 Board Meeting in Flagstaff, Arizona. 

A memorial service will be held at the Barney Carriage House at Forest Park in Springfield, MA on Saturday, December 27 from 1-3 p.m. Another service will be held in Flagstaff, Arizona sometime in 2015.


Northern Selkirks, 1962. Descending order: David Michaels, Graham Matthews, Bill Putnam, Ben Ferris. Photo: Jed Williamson


1962 – Miner’s Cabin – Ben Ferris and Bill Putnam. Photo: Jed Williamson


1960 – Carnes Group in Northern Selkirks. Photo: Jed Williamson

1962 - First Ascent of Bridgeland Peak in Selkirk Mountains. L to R David Michaels, The Bear (with shoulder rappel  patch), Graham Matthews, Ben Ferris. Photo: Jed Williamson

1962 – First Ascent of Bridgeland Peak in Selkirk Mountains. L to R David Michaels, The Bear (with shoulder rappel
patch), Graham Matthews, Ben Ferris. Photo: Jed Williamson



Vote for Your Board · December 19, 2014


Every year a few committed members are selected to join the AAC Board of Directors—but it’s you who have the responsibility to vote them in or not. This year the AAC Governance Committee is proud to have Mia Axon, Stacy Bare, Mark Butler, Chas Fischer, and Lauren Sigman on the board slate. Learn more about this board slate by visiting our website.

AAC members, can participate by voting online or by attending the Annual Membership Meeting on January 31.  Online voting closes at noon on January 31st.

We’re Hiring: Marketing Manager · December 17, 2014

We’re hiring a Marketing Manager. Visit our jobs page to learn more.

AAC Member John M Boyle Dies at 79. · December 8, 2014

John M. Boyle Photo: Jay Cassell

John M. Boyle ssst the 1983 American Expedition Everest to China. Photo: Jay Cassell


John M. Boyle, age 79, died in Santa Fe, NM on November, 19, 2014.

A native of San Francisco, Boyle was a global adventurer. After serving in the US Army in Germany (1954-1956), Boyle worked a satellite collection program, which took him to tracking stations in remote regions of the world, inspiring him to explore Africa, the Middle East and Asia in challenging expeditions over his lifetime.

Boyle was member of the successful 1983 American Expedition Everest to China where he served as base camp manager and expedition engineer. He designed and implemented a motorized rope relay system to transport 3,000 lbs of equipment and supplies up a rock headwall saving significant time and reducing risk to climbers. The expedition completed the first ascent of the last unclimbed face of Mt Everest via the Kangshung (or east) face in Tibet, getting six climbers of the fourteen member team to the summit without the assistance of Sherpas.

2013-12-08 20.52.41

A few treasures from the John M. Boyle Himalayan Library collection.


In preparing for the expedition, Boyle began collecting logs and photographic material of past Himalayan expeditions, searching for detailed geographic information to help plan for the first ever ascent of the East Face. This collection grew over the years to 2500 books in 28 languages, 400 expedition reports, and 100 videos and films, with about half of the books autographed by expedition participants. In 1997, Boyle donated the collection to the American Alpine Club which is now the home of the John M. Boyle Himalayan Library.

Boyle was a passionate sailboat racer and long-time member of the St. Francis Yacht Club in San Francisco. He also loved trains. In the 1970s, when Charlie Crocker decided to rejuvenate the Sierra Railroad Company and restore the Jamestown roundhouse and steam operations, Boyle bought shares in the effort of bringing back to life this gem of California history. Jamestown Railtown 1897 is now part of the California State Parks system and open to the public.

Among other successful business engagements, John served as Chief Financial Officer of Crocker Bank in San Francisco from 1974 until the its merger in 1981. Boyle retired from a career in banking and finance to Santa Fe, NM, where he was active in the “Car Table” group of car aficionados and a supporter of the performance arts.

Born on January 28, 1935 in San Francisco, California, Boyle received a BS in Engineering from UC Berkeley (1958), an MBA from Harvard (1962). He is survived by son Blake Boyle of North Bend, WA, daughter Melissa Boyle Mahle and grand-daughter Hana Mahle of Fairfax, VA, sisters MaryEllen Boyle, Michaela Alioto and Kathleen Sullivan and many friends around the globe.

Memorial services to be held in the spring in Santa Fe and San Francisco. Memorial contributions are welcome at the National Dance Institute of New Mexico, 1140 Alto St, Santa Fe NM 87501, 505-983- 7646, www.ndi-nm.org.

Accident Research Study · December 4, 2014

Doctoral candidate and climber Kelli McMahan is studying the aftermath of serious outdoor accidents. If you’ve experienced or witnessed a “critical incident,” help her out by taking this short survey.

Here’s more information on the research:


“Stress and Re-engagement Following a Critical Incident”

Please consider helping me complete this research in support of my doctoral studies at Texas A&M University. I am interested in learning about stress and re-engagement of outdoor adventure participants with their sport following “exposure” to a “critical incident”.
Critical incident refers to a fatality, disability, or injury or to a “close call” that highlighted the significant potential for major harm or loss.

By exposure it is meant that you experienced the critical incident personally, were a witness to it or have knowledge of an incident that caused you to reflect on and/or re-consider your own participation.

You can help by doing the following:

a) Reflecting on a critical incident you have heard about, read about, witnessed, or been a part of.

b) Describing the incident in a brief narrative (an example will follow in survey).

c) Completing the questionnaire based on those thoughts and reactions to the critical incident. Completion of the survey will take anywhere between 8 – 20 minutes of your time. The link to the survey follows.

Your participation in this survey is voluntary and you may discontinue participation at any time. Your answers are confidential. I will not sell or distribute any identifying information to any party. By clicking on the link in qualtrics, you are agreeing to your participation in the study but you can discontinue at any time.


You may receive this survey more than once because it is being distributed via multiple organizations. Apologies for duplications. Please complete they survey only once.

If you have any questions or comments about this study, please contact Kelli K. McMahan at KelliMc@tamu.edu or Kelli_McMahan@Baylor.edu. You may also contact my research chair at Texas A&M, Dr. David Scott. He can be reached at d-scott@tamu.edu

This research study has gone through a thorough review with the Institutional Research Board at Texas A&M and has been approved.

If your recollection of a critical incident causes emotional pain or distress, please seek out your local MHMR as a resource for professional counseling services. Thank you for your participation and valuable feedback.


Kelli K. McMahan, Doctoral Candidate

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