Facebook Facebook
AAC News

Friday AAJ Reports—May 25, 2012 · May 25, 2012

The American Alpine Journal never fails to satisfy your need to read about incredible ascents (or attempts) worldwide.

Naran (3,884m)—Despite “less-than-optimal” circumstances, Reynolds and his partner managed to summit a peak that he says has the makings of an Altai and Mongolian classic.

Changwatang (6,130m)—Grobel and his party were surprised—and, initially, offended—when they discovered that a road had been built into the valley, making it accessible to commercialism for the first time in its history. The presence of tourism forced them to consider their own role in the previously remote region.

First winter ascent of the north face of Dingjung Ri/Rima Mancho (6,263m)—Parkin wasn’t scared off by the huge rocks thrown through his tent as he slept at base camp early in his trip; he managed to make the first winter ascent of the peak after two very chilly bivouacs.

Gaurishankar (7,135m)—The summit of Gaurishankar has been reached only three times, each time by this route.

Jannu (7,711m)—The climb was interrupted when a member of the team fell into a crevasse, breaking several ribs.

Sanctuary Peak (6,025m) and Hopeless Peak (6,036m)—Beautiful weather and a remote location meant the trip started off nicely for Grobel and his party, but their expedition—which included an alpine-style ascent of a small, unnamed peak—nearly ended in disaster.

Kyajo Ri (6,186m); Kusum Kanguru (6,370m)—Sometimes what you don’t climb is just as exciting as what you do: Dare and his teammates were unable to make their objective for a variety of reasons, but they believe their route—though challenging—to be climbable.

Athahra Saya Khola Himal (6,767m), southeast ridge over Hindu Himal (6,306m) and Lilia Peak (6,425m)—While the peaks in this area aren’t technical or aesthetically impressive, they are very important, geographically speaking: they are the key to accessing the vast glacial plateaus below.

Roma (5,407m) and Danphe Sail (6,103m)—Neither Roma nor Danphe had been attempted prior to Ohnishi’s visit; thanks to an infectious bugbite, both peaks remain unclimbed.

An attempt and a tragedy on Thulagi (7,059m)—Bandalet and his party had attempted to climb Thulagi previously (see their report in AAJ 2011), but this attempt ended in tragedy: some of their supplies were recovered from the summit ridge, but their remains have not been found.

Comments are closed.