Your weekly Friday dose of the AAJ Online, fresh from the source. Excited about the upcoming 2012 AAJ yet? There’s a whole new department that’ll showcase…somewhere <wink>. Here’s your Friday:
Hispar Sar (6,400m)—Chabot and his partners eventually opted for the line first attempted by Simon Yates of Touching the Void fame; the climbing, however, was not the most difficult part of their expedition: organizing a trip from Hispar proved to be expensive thanks to steep porter fees.
Hostfjellet (ca.5,500m)—Eriksson and his partner completed this climb, which they scoped out as a “consolation prize” after their primary goal fell through, in a 20-hour push.
Hushe, Charakusa, Kande, and Atoshar valleys—The team spent the better part of a summer in the region and split into two groups to claim probable first ascents in the area.
Koh-e-Brobar (6,008m GPS)—The Pakistan Youth Organization aims to educate young people about mountaineering and the outdoors, and also to promote gender equality in the climbing world; in fact, this expedition was named “Gender Equality.” Its goal was an unnamed, unclimbed peak in the Ghujerab Mountains.
Latok III (6,949m)—Putting up this new route wasn’t just about climbing for Russian Alexander Odintsov: he has quite a history with the peak, and one of his objectives was to remove a bolt from the face to return to the widow of a climbing partner who’d perished on a previous attempt.
Charakusa Valley, Nafees Cap—The group of Norwegians experienced some rock and icefall during one of their first nights on the wall, prompting two members of the party, who were sure their lives were ending, to share a “last kiss.” Fortunately, they lived to tell the tale.
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face—When half the expedition was scared off by dangerous conditions on their original intended route, Mrak and her two remaining companions abandoned their siege-style tactics and decided to attempt Mummery Rib—the line descended in 1978 by Reinhold Messner, after his solo ascent of the Diamir Face—alpine style.
Tagas Group, Khane Valley—The valley Petkov and his party explored and photographed had, according to the locals, been visited only a handful of times previously. It contains myriad virgin summits and quality granite walls.
Trango Tower (6,239m)—Yurkin and his comrades spent 10 days on the wall; nasty weather prevailed the entire time. In the end, they named their route for the slogan of their Russian climbing club: “No Fear.”
Ultar (Ultar Sar, 7,388m)—After two days of heat, the weather deteriorated, and the party had to abandon their attempt. They plan to return.