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Friday AAJ Reports for June 22, 2012 · June 22, 2012

Some things to get you dreaming on a Friday. Who needs to work hard today anyway? It’s basically the weekend! Once you’ve read through these American Alpine Journal Online reports, go fill out a Live Your Dream Grant application and take one step closer to fulfilling those dreams!

Gasherbrum I (8,086m), First Winter Ascent—Nothing like some suffering, right? Winds at base camp were strong enough to lift one member of the expedition 4m off the ground in his tent, but the team persevered nonetheless. The goal of Polish Winter Himalaism 2010-2015, which sponsored the expedition, is to summit all the remaining 8,000ers in winter. <shudder>

Gasherbrum I (8,068m), A Winter Tragedy—On the same day that the Polish team made the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum I, Goeschl, Hahlen, and Sadpara disappeared just 250m from the summit. Helicopter flights to search for the missing climbers were repeatedly canceled due to inclement weather.

Charakusa Valley, Hassin (Hassan) Peak (ca 6,300m)—Kennedy and Dempster were among the few alpinists lucky enough to encounter bikini-clad Norwegians and adult beverages upon their arrival at a summit in Pakistan’s Charakusa Valley, which offered excellent views of the surrounding peaks.

Kara-kaya West—Poltavets was amazed that, even in a region as well-explored as the Central Caucasus, so many walls remain unclimbed. He and his party put up a new route on one such wall.

Mayakovsky (6,096m)—While Kleslo and his party’s route was easier than the original, their ascent was slowed down by fields of giant penitentes – which made for some pretty sweet photos.

Pik Moscow Olympic Games (5,883m)—Although no previous ascent by Bouda’s route is officially in the books, it is suspected that the peak has been climbed a handful of times by the same line since the 1970s.

Cho Oyu, Point 7,570m—Tosas was hospitalized after his climb after he rescued a client on Cho Oyu. He was surprised at how few people agreed to help bring the sick climber down, and he laments the apparent loss of human values high in the mountains.

Gurla Mandhata (Naimona’nyi, 7,694m), First Traverse—After sunny weather and subsequent rockfall scared them away from their original objective, Taniguchi and his partner successfully ascended a nearby unclimbed peak.

Exploration of the Jiangpu Glacier Region—The permitting process for exploration in this area proved particularly difficult; Nakamura and his party would not have been able to complete their objective without help from their guide and translator.

Qungmo Kangri (7,069m), southwest face; Point 6,097m, north ridge; Dhungri II (6,194m), southwest ridge; Point ca 5,980m—The history of this region is somewhat difficult to keep track of; the 2011 party, for example, believed they were making a first ascent of their summit, but discovered a rappel anchor at the top.

 

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