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AAC News

Grant Season is Here! · October 27, 2015


It’s grant season! Dream big and apply for the grant that’s right for you.

November 1 – Mountaineering Fellowship, Fall (climbing grants for young climbers)
December 1 – Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards (cutting-edge expeditions)
December 31 – Copp-Dash Inspire Awards (exploration + storytelling)
January 1 – Mountain Hardwear McNeill-Nott Awards (new routes and unclimbed peaks)


Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Nomination · October 26, 2015

We are looking for accomplished mountaineers who have given back to the community to recognize at our 2016 regional dinner in Denver.

The American Mountaineering Museum’s Hall of Mountaineering Excellence award is given to several people each year, including posthumous awardees. In keeping with the goals, mission and vision of this award, the nominees will be broad spectrum in their accomplishments.
Simply climbing great routes, while impressive, is not enough to encapsulate the meaning of this award. Thus, we will look at potential awardees with the following criteria in mind:

1. Accomplished Mountaineer: Awardee must have a substantial list of mountaineering accomplishments.

2. Multi-dimensional: The awardee should be giving back to the community directly through advocacy, activism, inspiring a legacy for future climbers, positively impacting the environment or mountain cultures, and/ or contributing to the field of science and medicine.

Please note: name recognition will not be taken into account, grassroots and community leader nominations encouraged.

Nominate a mountaineer.

2015 Anchor Replacement Fund Recipients Announced · October 15, 2015


For the first time ever we just awarded $10,000 for bolt replacement projects across the country through our new Anchor Replacement Fund grant program! Learn more about the 17 bolt replacement projects that received funding.

Metro NY Section Dinner · October 14, 2015

Alpine Fall 2015 v7.indd

Cordially invites you to the Thirty-fifth Annual Dinner
Saturday, November 14, 2015
Honoring Melissa Arnot

Learn more and buy your tickets.

2015 Cornerstone Conservation Grants Recipients Announced · October 7, 2015

Congratulations the the 2015 Cornerstone Conservation Grants powered by REI. To fulfill our vision of healthy climbing landscapes we award $25,000 annually to organizations, landowners, and individuals to help fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. Read the press release to learn about the eight recipients. 

Save the Date: 2016 Annual Benefit Dinner · September 28, 2015


The 2016 Annual Benefit Dinner is coming to Washington, DC!

AAC’s largest and most prestigious event of the year brings together over 500 guests including climbers of all generations and disciplines, esteemed donors and high profile leaders. The weekend includes multiple events where you can rub shoulders with climbing legends, young and old alike:

Friday, February 26 – Climbers’ Gathering, Earth Treks Rockville
Saturday, February 27 – Afternoon Panel Discussions and presentations
Saturday, February 27 – Evening Gala, Mayflower Hotel

Book your hotel now! The Mayflower hotel is offering Gala attendees a special rate of $133/night.
We only have 100 of these rooms on hold, so book early!
Book now or call 877-212-5752 (be sure to mention the American Alpine Club).

More details coming soon.

AAC Member Tex Bossier Passes Away · September 7, 2015

Longtime AAC member Tex Floyd Allen Bossier passed away yesterday in Saint-Jorioz France.

AAC member Malinda Chouinard wrote this about Tex, “…a decade later Tex opened Patagonia’s first offices in the EU: a drafty warehouse in Annecy. Tex then moved the office to Nice, and later to Paris, before moving the office back to Annecy.

Tex loved Annecy. He proudly toured us all about his historic village with enthusiastic stories of climbing history when we were last together.

Tex has been long missed in Santa Barbara where he taught rock climbing. Phil Powers of The America Alpine Club reports that Tex was his first climbing teacher; as do hundreds of others.

The AAC museum in Golden Colorado has featured Tex along with his partner Layton Kor’s climbs. It is to one of those climbs which Tex’s ashes are to be returned; Long’s Peak, facing his son Jack’s home.”

4 Reasons Climbers Should Care About The Public Land Heist · September 1, 2015


Why does the public land heist matter for climbers?

Across the country, a battle is looming over the sale of a huge swath of America’s public lands—putting millions of acres (and the climbing opportunities they offer) under siege. Here’s what you need to know.

1.     Over 71% of climbing areas in the west are on public lands.

From Red Rocks to Indian Creek, some of best climbing in the country is on public lands. These are iconic places, and they belong to all of us.

2.     Proposals to transfer public lands to states are a direct threat to America’s climbing.

The public land heist threatens 5,000 crags and over 29,000 climbing routes. These includes gems like Red Rocks in Nevada, Cochise Stronghold in Arizona, South Platte and Shelf Road in Colorado, Indian Creek in Utah, Liberty Bell in Washington, and Wild Iris in Wyoming, as well as countless other climbing areas on National Park Service, US Forest Service, and BLM lands.

3.     If the public land heist is successful, our prized public lands and climbing areas could be on the auction block.

Most states can’t afford to protect hundreds of thousands of acres of public land and keep them open for climbing. A single wildfire can cost $100 million to control, and states are required to balance their budgets. This would mean higher fees, closures, or even auctioning off wild places to raise revenue. On national public lands, we have a guaranteed voice and guaranteed access, because we are shareholders, not customers.

4.     You have the power to speak up and protect America’s climbing. 

This bad idea is gaining traction, and the only thing powerful enough to stop it is raising our voices and sharing our support for keeping public lands public. Join thousands of other climbers and outdoor enthusiasts who have signed the petition to keep public lands public, and protect the places you love to climb today and into the future.

Visit our partners at Outdoor Alliance to sign the petition and learn more about the Public Land Heist: http://www.protectourpublicland.org

AAC and Access Fund Launch Anchor Replacement Fund · August 17, 2015


The American Alpine Club and Access Fund are proud to announce a joint grant program available to local climbing organizations and anchor replacement groups seeking funding for fixed anchor replacement at climbing areas across the United States. By partnering on this program, the nation’s two national non-profit climbing organizations are filling a need unmet by their existing climbing conservation grants—replacing fixed anchors at local crags. This grant program is made possible by corporate support from ClimbTech, Petzl, and Trango. Read the press release.

Apply for the Anchor Replacement Fund.

AAC member Joseph Murphy Memorial Information · August 12, 2015

Murphy, Joseph Joe Murphy was a man of many parts. He was an explorer who climbed mountains in every continent, a certified financial analyst, an author of a wide variety of books, and a photographer who roamed the world. He will be sorely missed by his wife, Diana; his sons Michael (wife Johanna) and John (wife Suwannee) and granddaughters, Laura and Frances; and by his sister, Sheila Nichols. Joe was born in Minneapolis on March 13, 1930 and died here on August 10, 2015. After attending Kenwood School he went on to St. Thomas Academy and Blake School. He received his undergraduate degree from Princeton University in 1952, a time when the United States was at war in Korea. He enlisted in the United States Army; was selected for officer candidate school, then served as a Lieutenant in the Second Cavalry in Japan. From Japan, Joe and a friend from Princeton (with whom he founded its Mountaineering Club) set out to make a first ascent of Istoronal in the Hindukush. That climb left him with frozen toes, later amputated in Minneapolis. On his recovery he enrolled in graduate school at the University of Minnesota where he was a teaching assistant in the Department of History and where he met his wife Diana. Joe worked as an analyst at Woodard-Elwood and thereafter for many years in the Trust Department of Northwestern National Bank (later Norwest) where he served as vice president and pioneer in the application of computers to financial analysis. In the area of communications and media Joe served as member and later chairman of the board of Midwest Communications (WCCO). Among Joe’s many books are Stock Market Probability (Dow Jones 1994); The Random Character of Interest Rates (Probus 1990); With Interest (Dow Jones Irwin 1987); and Adventure Bevond the Clouds (Dillon Press 1986). In 1986 Joe received an award from The Friends of American Writers. Joe led three American mountaineering expeditions to Tibet; one to Gongga Shan in 1982, another to Shishapangma 1984, and a third to the North Face of Everest in 1986. He also skiied to both the South and North Poles. Joe was a member of the American Alpine Cub and served as vice president and member of the board of directors; he also belonged to the Himalayan Club. In the Twin Cities he was on the boards of Macalester College, the Children’s Theater, Outward Bound, the Center for the Book Arts, and Greater Minnapolis Council of Girl Scouts.

His life will be remembered at a 10:00 a.m. Mass at St. Olaf Catholic Church, 215 South 8th St, Mpls on Friday, August 14, with a reception to follow at the Minneapolis Club. In lieu of flowers you might consider a donation to your charity. Washburn-McReavy.com Davies Chapel 612-377-2203

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