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Friday AAJ Reports—June 1, 2012 · June 1, 2012

The 2012 American Alpine Journal  is right around the corner, but for the moment, you can read some of these awesome ascents from the 2011 AAJ:

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Help the AAJ With Google Earth Pro · May 31, 2012

The AAJ is looking for people who have Google Earth Pro and wouldn’t mind replicating a GE view in higher resolution than we can get it the normal way. Do you have it? Care to help? We’d be much obliged! Please respond here in the comments or (better yet) write directly to the editor at john@johnharlin.net. A hearty thank you!

Friday AAJ Reports—May 25, 2012 · May 25, 2012

The American Alpine Journal never fails to satisfy your need to read about incredible ascents (or attempts) worldwide.

Naran (3,884m)—Despite “less-than-optimal” circumstances, Reynolds and his partner managed to summit a peak that he says has the makings of an Altai and Mongolian classic.

Changwatang (6,130m)—Grobel and his party were surprised—and, initially, offended—when they discovered that a road had been built into the valley, making it accessible to commercialism for the first time in its history. The presence of tourism forced them to consider their own role in the previously remote region.

First winter ascent of the north face of Dingjung Ri/Rima Mancho (6,263m)—Parkin wasn’t scared off by the huge rocks thrown through his tent as he slept at base camp early in his trip; he managed to make the first winter ascent of the peak after two very chilly bivouacs.

Gaurishankar (7,135m)—The summit of Gaurishankar has been reached only three times, each time by this route.

Jannu (7,711m)—The climb was interrupted when a member of the team fell into a crevasse, breaking several ribs.

Sanctuary Peak (6,025m) and Hopeless Peak (6,036m)—Beautiful weather and a remote location meant the trip started off nicely for Grobel and his party, but their expedition—which included an alpine-style ascent of a small, unnamed peak—nearly ended in disaster.

Kyajo Ri (6,186m); Kusum Kanguru (6,370m)—Sometimes what you don’t climb is just as exciting as what you do: Dare and his teammates were unable to make their objective for a variety of reasons, but they believe their route—though challenging—to be climbable.

Athahra Saya Khola Himal (6,767m), southeast ridge over Hindu Himal (6,306m) and Lilia Peak (6,425m)—While the peaks in this area aren’t technical or aesthetically impressive, they are very important, geographically speaking: they are the key to accessing the vast glacial plateaus below.

Roma (5,407m) and Danphe Sail (6,103m)—Neither Roma nor Danphe had been attempted prior to Ohnishi’s visit; thanks to an infectious bugbite, both peaks remain unclimbed.

An attempt and a tragedy on Thulagi (7,059m)—Bandalet and his party had attempted to climb Thulagi previously (see their report in AAJ 2011), but this attempt ended in tragedy: some of their supplies were recovered from the summit ridge, but their remains have not been found.

Friday AAJ Reports—May 18, 2012 · May 18, 2012

The American Alpine Journal never fails to satisfy your need to read about incredible ascents (or attempts) worldwide.

Khan Tengri (6,995m)—The two climbers—who are not, according to Russian ranking lists, “alpinists,” but “hiking mountaineers”—made an unsupported assault on the peak and were lucky enough to hitch a ride home in a helicopter after their harrowing descent.

Pik Eggemenduluk (5,210m); Pik Lyell (4,864m); Pik Georgina (4,631m); Pik Annika (4,685m)—Mottram and company were back for a second go at Sarychat, after border crossings and severe weather impeded their first attempt a year earlier.

Pik Oleg (4,859m); Pik Byeliy (5,697m); Plus some other ascents and ski descents—Stres’ team planned to attempt a few unclimbed peaks, but its goal was also to allow its younger climbers to gain high-altitude mountaineering experience.

Pik Vernyi (5,250m); Cztery Pory Roku—Two years earlier, their team was sidelined by an injury; Krol and his partner picked up where they left off and were nearly successful on their second summit attempt.

First Ascents in the Oibala Range—Van der Smeede and his party were blessed with a long period of unusually good weather, allowing them to bag the first ascents of six peaks in the area, including the tallest summit in the range.

Pik 4,810m—Lavrinenko points out that while the major walls of the Karavshin have been climbed, the area still presents a number of interesting projects.

Friday AAJ Reports—May 11, 2012 · May 11, 2012

The American Alpine Journal never fails to satisfy your need to read about incredible ascents (or attempts) worldwide.

Bahini Group, Tridesh (ca 5,100m), Soneri Behin (ca 5,250m), and Prabha Behin (ca 5,500m)—Payne made a number of alpine-style ascents in the area on this trip, and noted that he received valuable assistance from a number of super-helpful local mountaineering groups. (More details are at the end of his report.)

In the footsteps of John Claude White AND photography of some unclimbed peaks—The pair followed the historic expedition of John White, even shunning modern technologies in favor of compasses and contour maps. They hope to make the area seem more accessible to adventurous trekkers and help put a stop to poaching in the area.

Pik Emma (4,783m map, 4,803m GPS); Pik Laetitia (4,940m map, 4,952m GPS); Pik 5,318m—Brighton and his party’s initial goal remains unclimbed, but their alpine-style efforts didn’t go altogether unrewarded: they managed to stand atop three other peaks during their trip.

Rakhmat (5,144m); Pik 4,887m; Tushunbodum (5,081m)—Llado and Rubi amused the locals on this trip (to the same valley as Brighton) with the sometimes-ridiculous names they assigned to their routes.

Pik Alexandra (5,290m), Pik Pernille (5,190m), Pik Lea (4,950m), Pik Kathryn (4,885m)—Though the region has only been visited a handful of times, Szilas’ initially disastrous expedition was saved by a family from Moscow, who used their working satellite phone to request additional supplies for the climbers.

AAJ Editor Offers Inside Look at the American Alpine Journal · May 10, 2012

American Alpine Journal editor John Harlin gives us an inside look at the process of creating the AAJ. More videos from John are in the works! Check it out on Inclined.

Friday AAJ Reports—May 4, 2012 · May 4, 2012

The American Alpine Journal never fails to satisfy your need to read about incredible ascents (or attempts) worldwide.

Dudh Ganga Col (5,350m) and Deotoli Col (5,400m)—Mukherjee and company explored the area, which is accessible to any experienced Himalayan trekker, in hopes of encouraging mountaineers to explore the unclimbed peaks.

Junai Kangri—The party hadn’t originally planned to climb Junai Kangri, but their initally goal proved to dangerous when they encountered an impassable crevasse just past their first camp.

Exploration of the Lenak and Giabul Valleys—The author and his party (all between the ages of 70 and 73) were thrilled to find dozens of virgin peaks in an area previously unexplored—and untainted with garbage—by climbers.

“Mont Maudit”—Schaar and his partner enjoyed seven successful ascents on this expedition thanks to mild weather and good planning, but their take-away had more to do with life in general than strictly with climbing.

Raru Valley—In August, a team of nine young Swiss climbers set out to climb in the Raru Valley—they spent a month in the area and eventually determined that August was too late in the season for good conditions, but Flugi determined that one could spend an entire summer exploring the valley.

Raru Valley—Arriving shortly after the departure of the Swiss expedition, Scott’s group split into two teams, each attempting a different route on the previously unclimbed R6.

These Russian Teams are Tenacious… · April 27, 2012

Turns out, Belousov and his partner were unsuccessful in their SECOND attempt on Edgar too, but the other members of their party reached the summit of Grosvenor just in time to avoid an onset of bad weather. Tenacious… Read More on AAJ Online.

Take Another Crack at Mt. Edgar… · April 27, 2012

On their first trip to the mountain, Belousov and his climbing partner made it to 5,900m before they had to bag their summit attempt due to poor conditions; they returned in 2011 to take another crack at Edgar…Read more on AAJ Online.

Your Friday AAJ Reports · April 27, 2012

The American Alpine Journal never fails to satisfy your need to read about incredible ascents (or attempts) worldwide.

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