On Monday Jon Jarvis, Director of the National Park Service, signed Director’s Order #41, which has significant implications for how climbers can enjoy recreating in Wilderness areas of the National Park System.
Director’s Order #41 marks the first time a land management agency has given national direction that climbing is a legitimate activity in Wilderness, and that fixed anchors necessary for climbing are also allowed. The order permits for the authorization of new bolts by zone, not just case-by-case permits for individual routes/bolts. Also under the order, interim fixed anchor permits may be granted prior to the establishment of dedicated climbing management plans.
For several decades, the AAC has been involved in the negotiations for this language in collaboration with the Access Fund. This latest action by NPS comes on the heels of the AAC’s April joint advocacy trip with the Access Fund to Washington, D.C. In early April, the AAC and AF policy team spent two days with top NPS officials negotiating the final language of DO#41.
We hope the precedent set by the National Park Service will also be adopted by other agencies including the Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service.
The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce that 42 dreams will be funded in 2013 through the Live Your Dream grant program. In total the AAC received a record-breaking 250+ Live Your Dream applications from across the country in 2013. Six regional committees awarded 42 grants, totaling $18,000. The awardees and their dreams are outlined in the Press Room.
50 years ago today, Jim Whittaker became the first American to stand atop Everest. Congratulations on 50 years to the entire American Mount Everest Expedition team!
At our 2013 Annual Benefit Dinner, celebrating the 50 Years of Americans on Everest, we collaborated with National Geographic ADVENTURE magazine to talk to the people who know Everest best. See what they had to say about the state of Everest in the film “50 Years on Everest- Climbers’ Candid Thoughts on the State of the World’s Tallest Peak.”
Can’t get enough Everest?
- Read Phil Powers’ thoughts on Everest: Then and Now
- Check out our write-up and photos from this year’s 2013 Annual Benefit Dinner
- Experience our online exhibit, Everest 1963: The American Odyssey
- View Everest photos from the personal collections of Jim Lester, Ed Webster, and others
- 15 climbers and guides reflect on Everest, portraits by Cory Richards
The AAC is looking for a dynamic new Library Director. Application deadline is May 20. You can find the job description on our jobs page.
Love climbing? Join the team this summer! AAC Internships available at our headquarters in Golden, Colorado.
Today we lost climbing legend and long time American Alpine Club member, Layton Kor. AAC Executive Director Phil Powers had this to say about Layton: “Layton Kor was one of the great rock pioneers of the American West. Kor attacked his climbing with passion, applying whatever skill and, when necessary, force of body and mind to get up some of the most stunning and daunting lines across the American West.”
I wanted to share a brief update on the AAC’s advocacy work in Washington, DC in early April. We teamed up with our friends at the Access Fund to visit key policymakers and advocate on behalf of American climbers. On the congressional side, we met with legislative staff from W. VA, ID, NV, and CO. We also met with top officials of the federal agencies. Overall, it was highly productive at nurturing key relationships and establishing new ones, keeping climbing issues on the radar of influential policymakers and educating policymakers about the sport of climbing and the interests of climbers. We continued to advocate for climbing as a legitimate use of Wilderness and to allow some discrete level of fixed anchors (no power drills of course) in Wilderness. We are hopeful to have the first formalized policy on Wilderness climbing in National Parks later this year.
-Leigh Goldberg—Conservation & Advocacy Director
The Great Ranges Fellowship: Member Profile – 6 Questions for Film Producer & Climber Steve Schwartz · April 17, 2013
Steve Schwartz is president of Chockstone Pictures, a production company he started with his wife, Paula Mae. He is a producer on such films as Killing Them Softly starring Brad Pitt; Cormac McCarthy’s The Road, starring Viggo Mortensen; and the upcoming Ridley Scott film, The Counselor. Steve served as a director on the AAC Board. He was an early advocate for promoting the Club and providing the necessary benefits for all climbers of all climbing styles. We recently caught up with Steve to get some insights on life as a film producer, rock climber, and AAC member.
The American Mountaineering Museum’s 2013 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Gala was a memorable night and a big success. Thanks to all our members, new and old, who joined us for this special celebration. You helped us sell-out the Gala and raise money for American Mountaineering Museum. See you next year!
Read about this year’s highlights on Inclined.
Congratulations to the six winning teams of the 2013 Piolet d’Or awards. This includes AAC members Kyle Dempster, Hayden Kennedy, and Josh Wharton for their climb of the South face of the Ogre, Pakistan.
This marks the first year all of the nominees have won. Read the full report at climbing.com