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Search results for: "jeff lowe"
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... CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS. 1985 175 Colorado Climbs. In February Jeff Lowe, Charlie Fowler and I did a ten- pitch climb in Ouray. The ascentis mostly ice up to W15 with somehard mixed climbing aswell. The nameisBird Brain Boulevard. On the limestone cliffs of the Big Horn Mountains in Wyoming I finally finished Wall of Voo Doo with Randy JosephandDennis McCarron. This is adangerous5.I 1+ faceclimb in the Fallen City area. Near Lyons, I did somegood short climbs. On the sand- stone, Mike McCarron and I did Jolly Rancher, a 5.12- areteclimb ...
... ) guidebook repertoire. The guide covers an areathat is rich in climbing tradition while alsoon the cutting edgeof sportclimbing of the 1990s. Consider the namesof someof the first-ascendersof popular climbs at Lover's 324 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1993 Leap, Sugarloaf and Donner Summit: Warren Harding, Royal Robbins, Steve Roper, Jeff Lowe, TM Herbert, Jim Orey, Bob Kamps, Mike Covington and Gordon Webster. And, of course, Tony Yaniro, author of Grand Illusion at Sugarloaf in the late '7Os, recorded as the world's first 5.13. And lately, Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, Dan ...
... gain 200 vertical meters (655 feet) to reach the top. This was not quite a record-breaking total number for Ama Dablam. but it was an impressive 297 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL. 1997 The south face of Pumor~ A Czech Route (Michalec-SulovskL: 1996) 6. Lowe Route (Jeff Lowe, 1983), C French Route (Lescure et al. 1975). D: Scott/sh Route (A//an-A//en, 1986) A Japanese team cbmbed the face ,n 1973; d&al/s of where the/r rooufe wenf are lackmg. ...
... was the first route completed through the summit roofs and was climbed by Eric Winkleman and me in 1983. This is the most pleasant route and follows a fingertips- to hand-sized crack system just left of the obvious off-width on the left side of the wall. The next summer, Dan Hare and Jeff Lowe climbed the sustained and classic 300-foot off-width, Road Warrior (III, 5. IO+ to 5. I I, 5 pitches), which merges with the summit-roof pitch on Good Evans. Aid routes have been done more recently and share the special quality of commitment, since it ...
... with deepsadness that Henry penned Hemming's obituary for the 1970 AAJ. Within a few years, some of Henry's closest mountain companions-Harlin, Dave Sowles, Dan Doody, Hugo Stadtmueller, Hemming-had died, and he stoppedclimbing soon after Hemming's death. Then. in 1983, Frost wrote, "Join me and Jeff Lowe in the Himalaya. We're going to Kantega." In the Khumbu in 1985,Lowe and Kendall climbed a new route on Lobuje East. It involved front-pointing up steep ice, Henry's first go at the technique. Lowe decided that 438 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 2000 Henry wasn't experienced enough in ...
... expedition (1969); José Luis Fonrouge and Carlos Comesaña also opened a route on Yerupajá six months before their first ascent of Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta. Others who have visited the Huayhuash include Walter Bonatti, Joe Brown, Alan Rouse, and, more recently, Mick Fowler, Lionel Daudet, and Jeff Lowe. Just north of Yerupajá is the sharp, delicate summit of Jirishanca, the "Hummingbird JIRISHANCA A climbing history of the Hummingbird Peak's southeast face, Peru. JEREMY FRIMER The southeast aspect of Jirishanca (6,094m): (1) East Buttress (800m, ED1, Egger-Jungmair, 1957 ...
... , Spaceshot in 2005, and finally the Touchstone Wall in 2006. Touchstone was a reluctant project for me, despite prodding from various sources, not the least of which was Rob. I had scoured the wall with binoculars and couldn't see a free route. The last straw came from Zion pioneer Jeff Lowe, who implored me to "take care of" Touchstone. My priorities changed. We tried the route over a January weekend, but were stymied by the brutally thin second pitch. We returned in February to explore a promising face climbing variation to the right of pitch two, which ...
... E3 E4 ES E6 EZ E8 ES El0 I APPENDICES 422 SNOW AND ICE GRADES There are currently four major systems used to grade the severity of snow and ice climbs: Scottish Winter Grades, New England Ice Rating System, Canadian Ice Grading, and the Water Ice (WI) system developed by Jeff Lowe. Each is described below according to its own merits. SCOTTISH WINTER GRADES The new two-tier system, which gives an overall grade based on an extended version of the previous I to V system (the new system extends to VIII), is in use. The overall difficulty is expressed ...
... El E8 E9 El0 405 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL, 1997 SNOW AND ICE GRADES There are currently four major systems used to grade the severity of snow and ice climbs: Scottish Winter Grades, New England Ice Rating System, Canadian Ice Grading, and the Water Ice (WI) system developed by Jeff Lowe. Each is described below according to its own merits. SCOTTISH WINTER GRADES The new two-tier system, which gives an overall grade based on an extended version of the previous I to V system (the new system extends to VIII), is in use. The overall difficulty is expressed ...
... describe the sys- tems according to their individual merits. SNOW AND ICE GRADES There are currently four major systems used to grade the severity of snow and ice climbs: Scottish Winter Grades, New England Ice Rating System, Canadian Ice Grading, and the Water Ice (WI) system developed by Jeff Lowe. Each is described below. SCOTTISH WINTER GRADES The two-tier system gives an overall grade based on an extended version of the previous I to V sys- tem. The overall difficulty is expressed by the Roman numeral. Technical grades apply to the hardest move or a short technical section of ...
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